Tahbilk Marsanne 2007 (WBW #46)
Nagambie Lakes, Central Victoria, Australia. 12.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A12.
Tahbilk is an under-appreciated Australian treasure. Established in 1860 it continues to produce idiosyncratic and affordable wines, from some of the worlds oldest vines. The Marsanne is made from vines first planted in 1927, arguably the oldest on the planet.
It's been maybe a decade since my last bottle of Tahbilk Marsanne. The impetus on this occasion being WBW #46, which this month is being hosted by the capable Dr Debs.
Pure, simple and charming. I wonder if this is what the newly coronated Queen Elizabeth II thought in 1953* when she tried this wine for the first time? Honeysuckle, sherbet and citrus. This is direct and surprisingly good. It's so much better than I recall (is it the screwcap, or the youth of this bottle, or just a change in my palate) with its well judged combination of acid, sweetness and unctuous texture.
Very good.
90.
Now.
*James Halliday mentioned 1953 and a visit to the Tahbilk winery in his Wine Atlas of Australia and NZ (First Edition, and the relevant page pictured above in the background), but the Queen only came out to Australia in the first part of 1954. Another site, mentions the wine being served at a Westminster Hall function in honour of the Queen on the 27th May 1953, but the Queen was only coronated on the 2nd of June 1953.
technorati tags: wine, australian wine
14 comments:
Funny you should mention "Tahbilk is an under-appreciated Australian treasure." - I had a bottle of their everyday Cab once, a bottle that sat in my cellar for years (ratings weren't very good so I kinda let it sit there). Anyway, it was a surprisingly great bottle. The SAQ currently lists the 2004 Marsanne - will pick up a bottle tomorrow
Bloody hell...that reminds me I have a vertical of this from 1999-2007 sitting in my office!
GW
A VERTICAL! Can we go to GW's house and help drink it? I haven't had a Tahblik wine in almost a decade, but I remember that one was great, too. Thanks for participating! Makes me want to go out and find some Tahblik.
Joe,
How much is this in Canada? It's an interesting wine and worth the try.
GW,
Look forward to the notes!
Dr Debs,
GW has managed to post over 3000 tasting notes over at his site. Clearly his is the place to be :)
I have a nagging memory of having tried a wine from Tahbilk in the distant past but I can't for the life of me remember what (or if, for sure) it was. In any event, nice notes as always, Edward. While the screwcap may have had a subtle effect, I'd hazard a guess that your current liking for it is more a sign of the times.
Hi Ed - it's C$16.20 - seems like a pretty good price for 90 EdPoints...
David,
The suggestion, common among Aussie wine critics, is to age this for 5 years. I think that was part of the problem, after aging, it just seemed sedate and characterless.
I think I enjoyed it more this time with its youth and restrained vitality still showing. Though as I suggested and as you point out, my palate has changed and I can probably now appreciate wines that are less overtly showy.
Joe,
I'll look out for the note. I've note had the 04, but it seems to be quite well regarded (at least by Jeremy Oliver, who is a prominent local critic, who gives a drinking window of 2012 - 2016!!).
Hi Edward,
My cellar is a mess of wine - old pieces of carpet, discarded golf clubs etc as well as modest quantities of wine.
Under a pile of papers and mess I found a dozen 1988 Tahbilk cabernet a couple of weeks ago. Just magnificent - and in my view on a par with the reknown 1986s.
I say this because current Tahbilk cabernets and shirazs are very disappointing to me. Poor oak treatment and a dusty, non-fresh finish that reminds me of Chateau Cardboard. But with 20 years these wines shine.
I recently drank a 1971 shiraz and - while a bit faded - it was excellent.
The marsannes I find overly simple and uninteresting as new wines. I did try cellaring some of those too. They seem to last pretty well for 4-5 years but then they taste washed out and past it topme. The few I aged for a decade (I think they were 1990, 1991s) were flowery and almost undrinkable.
I'll give the marsanne you like another go. Maybe my tastes have matured too.
Harry,
I think all cellars should have a little mess and chaos about them, that way there is more chance of serendipitous finds.
I wish I had your patience when it came to cellaring wine, blogging has reduced my time frame even further, and I often try bottles within 6-12 months of purchase now.
The Marsanne is still subdued and certainly lacks the plume and showiness of most other varietals, I think this is what I was unable to appreciate before.
Sounds like you had as much fun with your Rhone-style white as I did on this Wine Blogging Wednesday!
Just purchased a mixed dozen of marsanne from Tahbilk - 2 bottles each of the 2002-2007. Great value (just under AU$11 each) and a very food friendly style.
Sanjay,
Thank you for the comment. Sounds like a very wise purchase. Being the model of restraint when it comes to wine consumption (!!), I had a sip from the bottle, that I opened a week ago, and it is still pleasingly fresh and drinkable. A very good sign indeed. . .
Ed
I have always been a fan of Tahbilk Marsanne, and when taking in to account the quality vs what you pay it has to be one of the best wines in the country.
What people should realise is, this is a great cellaring wine. I remember seeing a bottle of the 1978 at Steve's a few years ago for $80. I haven't tried one that old, but I have had some mid 90's examples in the last couple of years and they are really good.
I have cellared half a dozen bottles of the 07, and look forward to drinking them in about five to ten years (after I get through all the back vintage riesling at La Vigna).
This is a great site, keep up the good work,
Julian
Jules,
I might have to give you some competition in purchasing some of those La Vigna Riesling back vintages!
I'm planning on putting aside some of the 07 Marsanne as well. . .
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