Henschke Tappa Pass Shiraz 2003

Tappa Pass and Ebenezer, Barossa, South Australia. Shiraz. 15%. Screwcap. Approx $55.

In the background the 2003, screwcap sealed version and in the foreground, part of the 2005, which is now closed with glass.

From the back label: The Barossa has a core of grapegrowers of German-Lutheran descent dating back five generations, doggedly continuing the tradition of their forebears. Occasionally one or two parcels of fruit come over the weighbridge that just blow us away; this wine is one such example.

Dense and staining. The first sip is the most remarkable, then the senses become saturated and numbed by the sheer depth, bigness and concentration of the wine. A slightly muted nose, laden with alcohol, the most noteworthy aspect is in the mouth, where it is intense, sour, creamy and long. Just short of being raisin flavoured and port like this is ridiculously curved, abundant, pointed and rich.

Very good - excellent.
91.
Now - 2013.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine,

Partial eclipse of the sun

Knowing wine

means being able to understand a glass of wine that you have never tried before. . .

Apologies to Victoria Fromkin and Robert Rodman who said: Knowing a language means being able to produce new sentences never spoken before and to understand sentences never heard before.

A dry spell

In the last month I've started running again, it's a most unbecoming sight, motivated by an impending numerical milestone, and the realisation that I'm well on my way to being a fat bugger.

I've been spending my nights of relative vinous and calorific deprivation reading and playing chess. In particular, I've started a remarkably well written book. Embracing the Wide Sky by Daniel Tammat. It's ambitious in its scope, and given the complexity of the subject (the brain and how it works), surprisingly accessible.

Petaluma Merlot 1996

Coonawarra, South Australia. Merlot (and ? cabernet sauvignon). Cork. 13.3%. Source: Cellar.

To start, I thought I was too late on this, with time though, it fills up and becomes more satisfying. To begin it has plump blackcurrant, cigar box and tobacco, in the background there is a trace of volatility and in the mouth it seems slightly hollow and tart. With patience and air, it fills and rounds out, showing a pleasing sweet core and meaty tannins.

Very good.
90-
Now.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

Crowded House Pinot noir 2007

I think this is a blend of at least 2 New Zealand regions - Central Otago and Marlborough. $A4 for a 60ml tasting glass from a local diner.

Despite consciously avoiding watches, I find I am a keen observer of clocks (2:25pm). Prone to obsession and with two young children, I'm rarely late. Today I had no particular schedule, but still I was bothered by a sense of time, ticking (2:28pm). . .

A tasting glass of this New Zealand pinot was an interesting contrast to last night's Spätburgunder. Smelling of macerated cherries and something steely and new, this juicy wine seems more forward, rounded and truncated (2:31pm). It's still very likable and a competent match for my plate of Veal Carpaccio (2:35pm and almost time to pick up the children. . .)

Very good.
88.
Now - 2010.

Georg Breuer Spätburgunder 2005

Rheingau, Germany. Pinot noir. 13%. Screwcap (Stelvin lux). Approx $A40.

Suddenly I see why the German's greedily drink all their Spätburgunder. This is a delightful, prim wine. Perfumed and pure it evokes raspberry, cherry liqueur and a hint of earth and stems. Snappy and bright in the mouth, this is refreshing and clean with very fine, minimal tannins. An uncomplicated wine which is full of charm and precision.

Very good.
90.
Now - 2014.

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2005

Langhe, Piedmont, Italy. Nebbiolo. 13.5%. Cork. Approx $A45.

Native to the Piedmont, The virus prone Nebbiolo is slow to ripen and particular about its location. The sun-baked, south facing slopes rich in calcium laden marls are best, sometimes producing profound and long lived wines. Smelling of autumn and seemingly made of stone, these brisk and assertive beasts are delightfully unrepentant.

Tasting note #2 for WBW #54.

Fleetingly soft before revealing its sinew and hardness. To begin this smells of rose petal but in time it is mainly bay leaf and juniper berry. Shapely and defined, the parching tannins envelope leaving a sensation of meat and chalk.

Very good.
91.
Now - 2014.

Australian Wine Trade Bushfire Raffle

For my small band of readers, please consider opening your purse for this very worthy cause. The cost is small, the need high and the potential rewards great. . .

Details of the raffle and prizes can be found HERE.

Image: I did not take this picture, it was sent to me this morning. In the foreground a wedding at De Bortoli (a Yarra Valley vineyard and producer). If I have infringed your copyright, my sincere apologies, it is not my practice and my intention is only to highlight a very worthy cause.

Ceretto Blange' Arneis 2007

Langhe, Piedmont, Italy. Arneis. 13%. Cork (? a twin top agglomerate). Approx $A40.

David McDuff is hosting WBW #54. The theme being a passion for Piedmont. After a WBW hiatus of 8 months I've decided to make up for lost time and post two notes for the occasion (the second, tomorrow).

The Blange' is distinct and showy in its packaging, the bottle is clear and embossed and the cork pops and fungates (the retained CO2 helps) when it is removed.

Arneis was nearly terminal in the 1970's, though it has made a firm and pleasing comeback since then. There seem to be two distinct styles currently on the market, the oxidative (nutty with very bitter phenolics) and like this bottle, the more fruit driven.

The notable spritzig creates a contrived and interesting edge and zip. Smelling of spiced and baked apple, almonds and pear skin, this is bright, pleasing, sweeter and less bitter than expected (if this was a beer, I would guess an IBU of 5). Still appealing even as the corset of carbon dioxide fades to leave something rounded, plump and fleshy.

Very good.
90.
Now - 2011.

Heemskerk Riesling 2007

Coal River Valley, Tasmania, Australia. Riesling. 12.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A40

Praiseworthy and particular, this is quite apart from any other Australian riesling I have tried. Matured on lees in 5000L French oak vats this is wildly scented and richly textured. It smells of passion fruit, gooseberry, rose petal and tea leaf. While in the mouth I could find - stones, mineral acidity and gripping texture. This is a complex and changeable wine, which seems part sauvignon in scent and gris in texture, whilst still maintaining and citric and mineral riesling edge.

Excellent.
95.
Now - 2014+

Two bottles a long way from home. . .

Today was the first day in a very long time that I've had a sequence of hours all to myself. Strangely enough, I found myself in a bottle shop. Surrounded by the new and the familiar, I am momentarily distracted by the sight of a late harvest (Autumn) Riesling labeled Penfolds Koonunga Hill. . . Surely too much leverage (of goodwill attached to a name) can only end in tears. . . I wander through the store and I'm thinking of two bloggers I've never met. . . Joe in Canada who has kindly sent me his entire cellar database and David McDuff who is to host next weeks WBW. I'm trying to find something from the Piedmonte and something that is on Joe's list. . . Instead I see Spätburgunder and automatically another image enters my brain. I start grinning and in my mind I can see another blogger I've never met, Barry - the toy gun totting, soul brother who drinks Spätburgunder for breakfast.

Craggy Range 'Te Muna Road' Pinot noir 2004

Martinborough, New Zealand. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Cork. Approx $A65

I bought a handful of figs today (I think they are Franciscana figs - dark purple outside and lovely and red internally). It's remarkable how variable the price can be. From the Swan Valley these were 67 cents a piece, I've seen them for as much as $A30 per kilogram (which is about $3 each). . .

As to the wine, this seems bigger and older than stated. Browning with a scent of earth and ginseng, this takes time to show its varietal spots and stripes. Notably sweet and rounded to begin before becoming more forced and harsh. Full of power, flavour and extract, this left me unconvinced.

Very good.
89.
Now.

Weekend wino sapien #4

I've been re reading Plato's Republic and taking solace in his Theory of Forms. You see, this weekend I've spent close to 8 hours constructing a very costly letter box. It's larger than normal (56cm by 33cm by 28cm) and has required three visits to the hardware store (first to buy paint, wood, a saw and screws; a second visit to purchase the correct saw and; finally a last visit to buy some nails, more screws and more wood).

By my reckoning it has cost at least $100 dollars in raw materials (mostly from China), a days labour, and one expensive bottle of chardonnay (to appease the grumpy workers). It has resulted in much cursing and several splinters and now that it has been installed I notice that it's slightly wobbly (hopefully it will last the rest of the year). . . Still Plato suggests that objects are just shadows of their true Form, so my crooked letter box is just as far removed from the ideal as any other. . .

Grilled fig and prosciutto salad

After noticing an inflation in my abdomen, I decided to take some drastic measures. I've started walking, eating less and have cut down on the booze. . . I would expect my drinking and wine tasting will resume once I can fit into my pants again. . .

This recipe was based on something I heard on the radio last night. Russell Blaikie (of Must winebar) spoke about caramelising fresh figs and making a summer salad with rocket, feta and walnuts. With that information and some additional inspiration from Barbara, I spent the whole morning thinking about figs, sugar and smallgoods. This was the end result. . .

How:
Cut 4 fresh figs in half and gently press the flat surface onto a plate of caster sugar. Now place the figs, sugar side down, onto a fry pan and heat. After four or five minutes, the sugar should be bubbling away, transforming into toffee. Once the sugared side of the figs have become suitably golden brown, remove and set aside to cool slightly. Prepare the rest of the salad by scattering a few handfuls of rocket onto a plate, topping this with 6 slices of prosciutto which have been torn and then adding the caramelised figs. To this crumble some feta and walnuts and then dress with a white wine vinaigrette.

from 9/1/11.

Grosset Polish Hill 2008

Polish Hill, Clare, South Australia. Riesling. 13%. Screwcap. Approx $A45.

First I noticed the flat base of the bottle was embossed with the name Grosset and then turning the cap I can feel that the neck is similarly marked. . .

The liquid itself is remarkable. Intense, focused and rapier like. Smelling of lime zest and lemon curd with a suggestion of flint, this is electric in the mouth, combining concentration with purity.

Very good - excellent.
92.
Now - 2018.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

Weekend wino sapien #3

There seems to be interest in the art work of elephants, I wonder if a parallel market exists for seagulls? The composition of this one seems pretty good, though perhaps they (I'm assuming this was collaborative) need to work on their use of colours. . .

Lenton Brae Semillon Sauvignon blanc 2008 (13%, screwcap, Margaret River). Fresh and unoffensive, like eating a bowl of ripe melon in a grassy field. Very good, but very white bread.

With the decline in asset values, there is a suggestion by some that we are seeing a secular shift from frivolity to frugality* (1,2). Fast approaching 40, I'm beginning to fear the expansion of my waist line may be secular too. . .

Leeuwin Prelude Cabernet Merlot 2003 (13%, Screwcap, Margaret River). Surprisingly good. Silky, flavour rich and with no rough edges.

Speaking of secular change, it looks like the hot weather will again impact on South Eastern Australia and areas such as the Clare. The average temperature for Clare for the month of January 09 was 31.8 degrees C (compared to a longer term average of 29.7)

Old Kent River Burls Reserve Pinot Noir 2004 (cork, Frankland River). Smelly and wild this is sweet, broad and slightly adhesive.

* Or as Obama said in his inauguration speech 'for those who prefer leisure over work, the time has come to set aside childish things'

Palacio De Bornos Verdejo 2007 (synthetic cork, tasting glass). It was a warm day and I needed some indulgence and refreshment, so I had a tasting glass of this while waiting for lunch. It's quite lovely, smelling of peanut skins and pear. Gripping, juicy and fleshy, this is crisp, sappy wine is a perfect starter.