Poderi Aldo Conterno Masante Langhe Dolcetto 2007

Langhe, Piedmonte, Italy. Dolcetto. 13.5%. Cork (tight and hard to remove). Approx $A45.

Matured in stainless steel, there is nothing blurred or ill-defined about this. It is sharp and acid laden, primary and quite delicious. Scented with rose petal, juniper berries and dried herbs (aniseed and bay leaf). While on the tongue, it is flavoursome and chewy, with a burst of blueberry and juniper. Bravo.

Very very good.
91.
Now - 2014.

technorati tags: wine

September books

I've been dipping my nose into these three books for several weeks. I started with The Periodic Table, which is beautiful and harrowing. Each story is tinged with sadness and tragedy and yet there is a lightness to the words and more than a trace of whimsy throughout. I've stopped for now at Mercury, distracted by a library deadline and pizza. . .

I borrowed Bad science. It's an important book, which deserves a wide audience. If you buy vitamins, visit a homeopath or have concerns about MMR, then this is a good place to start. The author is like a terrier when prosecuting his argument, so this was something I read in small bites.

From the book this rather sobering thought:

"They (Kruger and Dunning, 2 psychologists) noted that people who are incompetent suffer a dual burden: not only are they incompetent, but they may be too incompetent to assay their own incompetence, because the skills which underlie an ability to make a correct judgement are the same as the skill required to recognise a correct judgement. . . people who performed particularly poorly relative to their peers were unaware of their own incompetence; but more than that they were also less able to recognize competence in others."

Total Perfection is the most unusual and ambitious cook book I have come across. There are almost 500 pages and only 16 recipes. Each of the classic dishes (such as Pizza, Peking Duck, Roast chicken, Fish and Chips. . .) is dissected and placed in a historical and geographical context. Additionally there is science. It is refreshing to see that he experiments with techniques and ingredients, rather than giving a didactic set of instructions.

Post script: Looking at his chapter on pizza, I should be using flour with at least 13% protein, water with pH of 7.2 (better for gluten network) , and the kneeding should be done by machine (more air bubbles). Given my lack of wood fired pizza oven, I need to crank up my cooking temperature, he suggests using a cast iron frying pan instead of my trusty and stained pizza stone (hotter and so faster cooking time). . . I'm not sure I will follow his path exactly, given the complexity and the extra effort required. Still, I found the additional information and vigour of investigation commendable.

Kooyong Meres Pinot noir 2006

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Diam. Approx $A65

Image: Wine bottle with freshly prepared but unproven pizza dough.

I wish I could remember exactly its sibling, the Kooyong Ferrous tasted like, instead I must rely on a two month old tasting note for reconstruction and comparison. My earlier note suggests the Meres is a slightly less complex wine. On opening there is a flood of stewed cherries, though in time there is more earth, spice and minced meat. In the mouth it is like sucking on cherry pips - such is the combination of intensity and sourness.

Very very good.
91.
Now - 2011.

Chinese roast duck calzone

I think it is fair to say that I've become slightly obsessed with making pizza. It seems to be all I've cooked for the last month. I've borrowed and read half a dozen books, the best is still the one by Lanzafame, which Australia Post is currently selling (with a round pizza stone) for $A35.

There seem to be some constants and a number of variables in terms of pizza dough recipes. The flour to water mix is almost always 100:60 (ie 60 mls of water for each 100g of flour), while the American authors frequently add a small amount of sugar.

One other variable is the yeast. I'm curious about the amount recommended. Given the rapidity at which yeast can reproduce, does it really matter whether you start with 7,8 or 15 grams? For my purposes and convenience, a single sachet is all I ever use, I rely on time and budding to take care of the rest.

How? Once you have your pizza dough and have bought your roast duck from Chinatown, this takes almost no preparation. For the stuffing, I used the meat and skin from five or six pieces of roast duck, three roughly diced spring onions, a tablespoon of chopped coriander and half a medium tomato which I diced. For moisture and flavour I used a few tablespoons of the Hoisin sauce which came with the duck.

Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2008

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Abruzzi, Central Italy. Trebbiano aka Ugni blanc. 13%. Cork (twin top).

Two found objects. A bottle of wine, simple and refreshing, like a watered down shot of ouzo served with a slice of lemon, and a scary potato (possibly a Royal blue) found sprouting in a dark recess of my pantry. I suspect I acquired both at about the same time. The wine, full of function but lacking in complexity, was promptly opened and used to wash down some home made pizza. The spud has been packed away, to be the subject of this week's show and tell at school.

Asparagus pizza

I bought my first 'crop' of Spring 2009 Australian asparagus on the weekend. Right at the moment, I can think of no other seasonal vegetable I look forward to more keenly.

The sight triggers a whole series of greedy, mostly dribble producing, associations. The first is proscuitto, followed by goats cheese, Sauvignon blanc, Semillon, smelly urine, gooey eggs, cracked pepper. I can now add pizza. . .

Preparation.

The day before make some home made yoghurt cheese (aka Labneh). If you are like me, and slightly disorganised, the time for this can be reduced to 2-3 hours, as long as you are prepared to frequently twist and squeeze your muslin to wring out as much whey as possible.

2-3 hours ahead of time, make a 300g ball of pizza dough. (for 2 balls, I used 380 g of strong flour - at least 11g protein per 1oog, 20g of semolina, 2 pinches of rock salt, 1 tablespoon of olive oil, 8g sachet of instant yeast, 25o mls of water).

While waiting for the dough to prove do and find the following:
Finely slice a small brown onion and fry in olive oil, with gentle heat for 5 minutes, till clear. Set aside to cool.
Attend to the Asparagus - break off the woody bits, clean and just before needed, blanch for no more than 20 seconds in boiling water. Refresh under cold water after.
Grate enough mozzarella - a generous handful.
Roughly chop a handful of parsley.
Locate the remaining ingredients - small handful of walnuts, and the optional extra of white truffle oil.

Construction.

Shape prepared pizza dough into a round ball, then flatten with hands forming a thick but circular disk. Complete the process with a rolling pin. Coat the pizza base with a thin layer of Labneh. Scatter with grated mozarella, parsley and the cooked and now cool onion. Top with the blanched asparagus spears, a little more mozzarella or grated Parmesan and some ground black pepper.

Cook in a hot oven. For me this was 240 degrees C for 6 minutes. Remove and garnish with walnuts and truffle oil. Slice and serve.

Taupenot Merme Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2006

Burgundy, France. Pinot noir, Gamay. 12.5%. Cork (fully stained). Approx $A30.

Perhaps a better visual metaphor for this sappy and juicy wine would have been a quick and rough watercolour. Despite its rustic simplicity there is much to like. A hint of earth to complement the sap and berries, while the bright acidity, attack and flavour profile reminds me most of cranberry juice. . .

Good.
85.
Now - 2011.

Clonakilla Viognier Nouveau 2009

Canberra, Australia. Viognier. 14%. Screwcap. Approx $A25-30

Money, money, money. A week ago my 5 year old wanted to listen to Abba, so like a dutiful father I downloaded some music to my iPod. Sharing headphones while crossing the street, I managed to drop and maim the device. Several futile, expletive filled hours followed, as I tried to revive the machine. I decided it was a sign and gave in to temptation and ordered an iPod touch. Which of course would not work on my existing but somewhat middle aged laptop. My G4 powerbook is like an evolutionary dead end, powered by a pre Intel processor, and destined never to be in sync with my new iPod touch. I of course decided this was a sign and gave into temptation. I now have a new Macbook which is a superb machine, though I'm not too keen on the spacing of the letters on the keyboard.

Fermented in steel and rushed to market while still a babe, this is terrific. Vibrant, varietal and voluptuous, this smells of bubblegum and there seems to be more pineapple than apricot. Musk and playful esters. Warming and full in the mouth, it is perhaps a little diffuse, but the grip and slightly oily texture is very pleasing, as is the persistence of flavours and intensity.

Very good.
89.
Now.

Reichsrat Von Buhl 'Dry' Riesling 2007

Pflaz, Germany. Riesling. 12%. Screwcap. Approx $A24

Good in parts. The nose and the grapefruit flavours in particular were pleasing. I found it a little too salty, and in the end I felt unrefreshed.

Wax coated green apple, lemon blossom, spice and citrus pith. Frontal and globular in shape, with notable grapefruit bitterness, spice and the impression of salt.

86.
Now - 2012

Marchand & Burch Mount Barrow Pinot noir 2008

Mount Barker, Great Southern, Western Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A85.

Being a wino sapien, I can recall the exact time, day and place I first saw a bottle of Marchand & Burch pinot. I can also recall my bemusement when I saw the price tag. Mount Barker and the nearby Porongurups make a range of very good wines. Shiraz and riesling come to mind, but the pinot has always seemed simple and slightly top heavy. For comparison, the best producers like Castle Rock sell their well established pinot for less than $30.

One year on, curiosity and spin have finally opened my wallet. . .

I'm impressed, though I wonder if some might find this a little too tight and sour. Cherry, rose petal and earth. By night's end I think there is a whiff of eucalpytus and English breakfast tea. Notably brisk and tart, the intensity of the attack is a little surprising, though thankfully the texture and suppleness redeem.

This reminds me a little of the Tappanappa Foggy Hill.

Very good - excellent.
92.
2010 - 2015

Agly Brothers Cotes du Roussillon 2006

Roussillon, France. Carignan, Grenache, Shiraz. 15%. Cork. Approx $A80 from restaurant wine list

It would be interesting to taste this alongside the La Pleiade Heathcote Shiraz. Both are the product of a Michel Chapoutier and Ron Laughton (Jasper Hill) collaboration, and both seem to have an emphasis of ripe fruit, extract and heft.

A glass staining, black wine which floods the nose with vanilla, black fruit, ink and spice. Large and powerful, the heat of the alcohol shows, but overall it's an quite attractive, pass the aspirin type of wine.

Very good.
89.
Now - 2012.

Burp

Father's day, and it seems I've spent much of the day (and weekend) with my nose in a glass and a fork in my hand. . .

I enjoyed a few glasses of the 2007 Pegasus Bay Riesling. An initial spritzig, plenty of lime zest, lemon curd and a pleasing measure of sweetness. The 2006 Mitolo G.A.M Shiraz was notable for its size and ripe softness. I wish I could recall in more detail the 2004 Prunotto Bussia Barolo, but my reverie and vinous thoughts were interrupted by the lusty warbling of two men in their 80s, a violin and a piano accordion.

De Bortoli Noble One 2006

Riverina, NSW, Australia. Semillon. 10%. Screwcap. Approx $33.

The very observant might notice that the image is from an earlier post. The original plan was to wait till 2013 before trying both together, to see if there was any observable difference, as a result of cellaring conditions. Hopefully patience will prevail. In the mean time, and in the name of science, I purchased a third bottle for immediate dissection. . .

This seems more polished and almond meal scented than I can recall. Is it the evolution of the brand, the vintage, or just my faulty memory? A complex amalgam of orange marmalade, marzipan, aldehyde and nectar. In the mouth it seems more substantive than the stated 10%. Textured, guilty and tooth dissolving. The flavours are perhaps a little simple and confection like at present, like SPC tinned fruit. I suspect it will be more rewarding and complete in 2013.

Very good.
91+
Now - 2014+

Tim Cohen's review.

Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Kabinett 2007

Mosel, Germany. Riesling. 8%. Screwcap. Approx $A43.

Seamless and pure, it's been a while since I have had a wine so refreshing. Uncomplicated and deliberate, the balance and poise is tremendous. For the trainspotters, I thought there was candied fruit, apricots, poached pear, and a hint of baking spice, along with a whiff of sulphur and stones. In the mouth it is light and clear and the aliquot of sweetness is perfectly matched.

Very good - excellent.
92.
Now - 2017.

Desert island wines

I blame Tim Cohen for this, and the novel I finished a few weeks ago.

It's all forgotten though, with her next question. All my life I have been waiting for this moment, and when it comes I can hardly believe it: I feel unprepared, caught short.

'What are your five favourite records of all time?' she says.
'Pardon?'
'What are your all-time top five records? Your desert island discs, minus - how many? Three?'
'Minus three what?'
'It's eight on Desert Island Discs, isn't it? So eight minus five is three, right?'
'Yeah, Plus three, though. Not minus three.'
No, I just said. . . anyway. Your all-time top five records.'
'What, in the club , or at home?'
'Is there a difference?'

'OF COURSE. . .' Too shrill. I pretend I've got something in my throat, clear it, and start again. 'Well yeah, a bit. There's my top five dance records of all time, and then there's my top five records of all time. See one of my favourite-ever records is "Sin City" by the Flying Burrito Brothers, but I wouldn't play that at the club. It's a country-rock ballad. Everyone would go home.'

'Never mind. Any five, So four more.'
'What d'you mean, four more?'
'Well if one of them is this "Sin City" thing, that leaves four more.'

'NO!' This time I make no attempt to disguise the panic. 'I didn't say it was in my top five! I just said it was one of my favourites! It might turn out to be number six or seven!'

I'm making a bit of a berk of myself, but I can't help it: this is too important, and I've waited for it too long. But where have they gone, all those records I've had in my head for years. . . My head is suddenly flooded with titles of terrible records, and I'm almost hyperventilating.

Days after reading Tim's post, I'm still struggling with my list. There are so many things to consider. . . In the end I decide to go with wines I've tried this year, and bottles sealed with either a popping champagne cork, screwcap or vinolok, just in case I manage to lose my waiters-friend in the process of being stranded.

Something dry and jolting to start every day, like the Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus. I hope my island has oysters, though I'd settle for scallops and baby squid. . . A dryish riesling, like the J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Spätlese Trochen Riesling 2004, would be the perfect thirst quencher. A slightly more substantive white, like the Kumeu River Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay 2006 would continue the theme of white, dry and mineral. Only one table red, but a beauty. There are only a few thousand bottles of the divine 2007 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier in existence. Perhaps if I had enough bottles and threatened to drink quickly, someone would look for me. . . Finally, an unlimited supply of All Saints Grand Tokay to keep me feeling warm and flushed on cold nights.

Image credit. My darling sister, and her 'perfect cloud'.

Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin "Les Cazetiers" 2002

Burgundy, France. Pinot noir. 13%. Cork. Half bottle

Though highly enjoyable, no school night epiphany with this particular half bottle. It reminds me of Autumn with its combination of earth and decay (I wonder if a bigger bottle might have shown more freshness). Stems, stewed berries and spice, with a suggestion (? auto) of small goods. Lovely and poised in the mouth, quite frontal, but certainly no tadpole. Silky and mouth filling, this is rimmed with bright acidity while the finish is like Charcuterie wrapped in velvet.

Very good - excellent
92.
Now - 2011+

Duck ragu

I used a third of this to make three calzone. The rest has been frozen for later use, probably with pasta and a bottle of Nebbiolo.

Ingredients:

• 6 duck legs - skin removed
• 1 medium carrot - diced
• 1 small celery stick - diced
• 2 medium onions - diced
• 3 cloves of garlic - crushed
• 3 glasses of red wine (I used left over pinot and cabernet)
• 1 handful of fresh parsley - chopped
• 2 tins of diced tomatoes (2x400g)

How?
Remove the skin from the duck legs and set aside (render the fat from the skin for future use). Fry the carrot, celery, onion and garlic in a splash of olive oil, for a few minutes, before adding the duck legs, so they may brown in the pan. After around 5 minutes, add the red wine and allow this to boil and reduce. Now add the parsley and tinned tomatoes, stir and then cover the pot with a lid and place in an oven (set at 160 degrees) for between 2 and 3 hours. At this point remove the duck legs from the sauce and take the meat off the bones and break into chunks and shreds. Return the meat (not the bones) to the pot and stir.