Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Pinot noir. 14%. Diam. Approx $A40.The archetype of Burgundy, replete with its beauty, prestige and intricate terroir is impossible to replicate and yet impossible to ignore. As a drinker your frame of reference is already determined and I suspect, despite protestations to the contrary the same Burgundian frame encapsulates and informs many vignerons. Whisson Lake (the surnames of Mark and Bruce) suggests something Burgundian with their label; the typography and the absence of grape, the rectangle around the year. . . Sadly the wine tastes like an hot Summer's day. Faded and pale, it seems disjointed, abrasive and the concluding blast of heat does not make this fleshy, slightly fatty, confected and char flavoured wine any more appealing.
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