Hunter, NSW, Australia. Semillon. 12.2%. Screwcap.Two unrelated thoughts as I twist the cap. How can producers of aromatic whites still seal their wines with cork, and the image of preserved lemons. . . From the instant the seal is removed this is alive, fresh and ready. There's no excess of reduction and there is certainly no doubt. Blossom and gun powder, flint, lemon zest and the first suggestion of toast. It is a fact locally acknowledged, that an unwooded Hunter Semillon of a particular age grows in stature and wants for nothing. Still, it comes as a pleasant surprise each time I taste. This wine perhaps even more so - the texture is mouth filling and the liquid carries perhaps a little more weight and density than expected. It still bristles and is full of impact, but the edges are more rounded and the citrus flavours have matured and remind me of the transformation that occurs with lemons left in brine. 91. Now - 2017.
Image: Port Hedland salt flats in the background from The Pilbara Project
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