Postcard: Margaret River Grapes

Even though I have a fondness for tasting wine, at each cellar door stop, during my recent Margaret River trip, the thing I wanted to taste the most was not from the bottle, but from the vines outside.

Though it diminishes the final harvest, I wonder if there are any cellar doors, who offer their customers a glass of wine and a few freshly harvested grapes?

Image: Cabernet sauvignon grapes @ Edwards winery in Margaret River.

Seppeltsfield Selma Melitta

A blend of multiple influences. Rutherglen Muscadelle, aged sweet wine, Oloroso and Amontillado. 18.5% alcohol. Screwcap. Approx $A40 for 500ml bottle.

One of properties of sugar is its ability to caramelize. Add enough heat and it moves from a colourless, odourless, simply sweet crystal to over one hundred new compounds. Some sour, others bitter, aromatic and coloured. Time, oxygen and partial fermentation have produced a similar array of wonders in this fortified wine.

A brown core but the rim has a flash of khaki. Sipped on a hot day, the sting of alcohol hits the nose, but not before the scent of fruitcake and panforte. As the label suggests, this is lush, viscous and concentrated. Like everything else, the acidity is intense and heightened. The next wave of sensation happens a few seconds after swallowing. You can follow the progress of the bolus by taking note of the warmth as it trickles into your being, as it does so, it releases more pleasure - toffee, treacle, mocha, a suggestion of bitterness and walnuts. A wonderful wine, even in the middle of Summer. 95.

Pata Negra

It must be ten minutes since I finished my slice of pata negra and still the flavour and richness lingers. Satisfying, but at the same time a shameless tease that is hard to push from mouth and mind. If not so expensive ($300/kg, $25 for my 10 small slices) and hard to find (Spanish Flavours, now at the North end of Oxford St, Mt Hawthorn) I might buy it more than once every few years. . .

Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin 2002

Burgundy, France. Pinot noir. 13%. Cork. Half Bottle.

My twenty three year old Milan Kundera paperback has seen better days. The glue is weak and the pages dusty, brown and growing frail. I was curious to see if the staccato chapters laden with existential angst would still appeal. While it resonates less, it still manages to make me stop and think.

There is no means of testing which decision is better, because there is no basis for comparison. We live everything as it comes, without warning, like an actor going on cold. And what can life be worth if the first rehearsal for life is life itself? That is why life is always like a sketch. No, "sketch" is not quite the word, because a sketch is an outline of something, the ground-work for a picture, whereas the sketch that is our life is a sketch for nothing, an outline with no picture.

The stones I'm less clear on. I'd guess they are pieces of granite. I found them on one of the many beaches of Margaret River, washed smooth by time, tide and company*. I normally associate smooth stones and pebbles with Chablis and the fast running water of a mountain stream, so I was pleased to find these. I've so far resisted the urge to place them in my mouth. . .

Tasting note - Showing more age than I would expect, it's turning brown and stinky, though in time it's more distinguished and classical in form, becoming earthy and autumnal. Finely structured but unremarkable, I had hoped for more. Now. 89.

* There is a Zen saying - that, like pebbles in a bag, monks polish each other.

Postcard: Margaret River #3

Despite all the multimillion dollar beach front property and the architectural cellar doors all offering the same thing (SSB, Chardonnay, Cabernet and Shiraz), there is something still refreshingly mischievous and free spirited about Margaret River.

Image: Margaret River - Cowaramup Rd heading towards the beach at Gracetown.

Postcard: Signs you've been drinking too much wine

From the other-side of the restaurant you can spot the bottle of Marc Bredif Vouvray hanging from the ceiling. . .

Image: The light fittings over the bar @ Must, Margaret River.

Rockford White Frontignac 2009

Barossa, South Australia. Frontignac aka Muscat à Petits Grains. 10%. Screwcap. Approx $A25.

A roving eye and vinous curiosity meant that this bottle found its way home. No particular expectations of greatness or fulfillment, just something guilt free to open and sup with leftovers. Musk and ground ginger, grape skins. Traminer like with a strike of flint. Simple, sweet, lush with a twist of bitterness. Now. 85-87.

Review: Arc of Iris

At the Southern end of the Margaret River townsite on Bussell Highway is a peculiar but rewarding restaurant. Bright purple on the outside and seemingly not a matching piece of furniture inside. A dozen or more clocks and a large patterned quilt decorate the main wall, which itself is randomly and incompletely painted. A curious combination of new age and kleptomania. The food is generous - huge portions seem to be the rule. My pork belly (pictured) was shared among four and the half roasted duck is similarly abundant. There is little delicacy, this is retro / home-style food with strong, bold flavours with an emphasis on impact and satiety. Still it's easy to recommend for its quirkiness, BYO status ($5 per bottle) and direct and nostalgic meals.

Review: Margaret River Providore

The Providore is a three headed beast, with the most appealing one being the restaurant, followed by the small goods and condiments. The wine cellar door offerings are clean and fault free, but there are better elsewhere and surely the primary reason to visit is the food.

It pays to book ahead, there are only a handful of tables, the best under the rammed earth verandah overlooking the vines and bees. On the other side of the building is an organic garden, the menu boasts that the vegetables and herbs are picked from the garden each morning. The newness and freshness is readily apparent on the plate. The pictured leg of duck, complete with tiny garlic flowers and a beetroot and hazelnut salad was superb.

Post script: One interesting and seemingly widespread development seems to be the abandonment of bottled water and the embrace of filtered rain water. Every cellar door I visited offered rainwater. Bravo.

Postcard: Dinner in Margaret River

While some of the wineries offer wonderful food, without fail they all shut the door at or before 5pm. The hungry and thirsty have no choice but to navigate the unlit country roads and head into the townsite itself. There are two standout options. Must and Wino's.

Wino's is the more established. Clad with vines the inside has changed little in the 5 or so years since I last visited. Which is fortunate, it was and still is my favourite Margaret River eatery. Casual but unmistakably serious at the same time. Informal, with relaxed waiters and blackboard menus, the food if wonderful and flows out of the kitchen at great speed. There are no culinary tricks, as in the past, it is still tapas inspired with small plates and bowls of beautiful, simple and on the night I visited, inspired food.

Though they have an extensive cellar, necessity (driving home) meant that I stuck with their list of wines by the glass.

The Yard Bimbimbi Riesling 2009 (Larry Cherubino - Margaret River riesling grapes). An unusual nose. Bees wax, lavender. Floral. Quite sweet, light and simple. 15

Bligh Merlot Cabernet Franc 2007 (Margaret River). Slightly smelly, old socks mixed with super ripe blackcurrant. Plump, rich and inky. Dark chocolate finish. Full and of modest interest. 15



Must is newer, but already known because of it's older and successful sibling in Perth. The layout is much the same too. Bar on the right as you walk in and dining room on the left, the two partitioned by a wall of wine.

The dining room and the food is French bistro. The charcuterie plate lovely, but unsurprising and safe. Their dry aged beef, I had a 270g sirloin, is wonderful without being mind altering. On the night, the special of slow cooked beef ribs was the standout, while the angel hair pasta was competent.

From the list I tried:

S C Pannell Pronto 2010 (Adelaide Hills - SB, Riesling, Gris). Tropical, citrus, cut bean and grass. Quite grippy and slightly bitter. 16

Torbreck Natural Wine Project Grenache 2010 (Barossa. See here). Alive and certainly the most interesting wine I tried during my short 3 day break from the city. Spiced and sappy, blueberries and something very primary. Big in the mouth, slightly hot finish with pepper, richness and lovely fruit tannins. 16.5

Image: Must dining room lit by the setting sun.

Postcard: Margaret River's prettiest plates

Knee Deep in Margaret River is one of the newest wineries in the region, though already the cellar door has gained much praise thanks to the food of chef Brad Hornby. The dining room itself is much smaller than expected, perhaps 10 tables overlooking the Sauvignon blanc and Chardonnay vines. The food has no such limitation and the dishes are superbly constructed, each bite offering nuance and a masterful blend of textures and tastes.

Image: Pork belly

Postcard: Even bees like Margaret River Chardonnay

Some damaged chardonnay berries and a swarm of bees drinking the juice. Their legs were pollen free, so clearly even nature's workers are prone to skiving off. It seems even the bees like Margaret River chardonnay. . .

2009 Knee Deep Kim's Chardonnay - A 15ml pour, literally one sip. The cellar door needs to be more generous with their wine tastings. Bright, bristling and anxious. Not ready and seemingly full of potential. Made by Bob Cartwright (ex Leeuwin estate). 17/20

2007 Coward and Black Chardonnay - Ripe and top heavy with little length. Fig and sun shine, butterscotch and toffee. Plump and precocious. 16/20

2008 Edwards Chardonnay - Somewhere between the previous two in style and age. Butterscotch, nutmeg, peaches and cream. Varietal and safe. Lovely acidity and balance, quite sappy and fresh while still being bold, spiced and unmistakably Margaret River. 17.5/20

Image: Chardonnay grapes on the 21/1/11 @ Coward and Black.

Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 2005

Corton-Charlemagne, Burgundy, France. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Cork. Half bottle. Cost: Arm.

Exceptional. A buxom blond in a tight sweater. Full, rich, spiced and a seam of oxidation and imperfection which makes this all the more alluring. Baking spices, butterscotch, grilled nuts, fino sherry. Melons, fresh fig. . . this is just the right side of too much. . . The first sip is geological - stones, rolling and smooth, mineral acidity and the impression of hardness and substance. There is of course much more, it's fatty, fleshy and powerful. A Rodin rather than some tortured and undernourished Giacometti. Lingering and full of impact. It verges on caricature with it's exuberance and heft and despite the world being full of impersonators trying to ape the richness and curves, this remains quite singular and separate. Now - 2015+

Image: Summer reading - Broken Glass and Mr Peanut.

Plantagenet Ringbark Riesling 2008

Great Southern, Western Australia. Riesling. 10%. Screwcap. Approx $A26

Ringbark = cordon cut = cane cut.

Golden and aromatic. Grated lime zest, citrus blossom and perhaps the very start of petroleum and a shake of white pepper. Classic Great Southern nose but with something unmistakably sweet in the background - lets call it candied orange and mustard fruit. Generous and enveloping, a wave of sugar and texture held in shape by a corset of acidity. 89. Now - 2013.

Wine and apples

Whilst Pollan's 2001 offering has very little, if anything to say about Kaffir Lime, the two fruit sitting on the book do illustrate a point. Humans choose and favour particular plants in the field, garden and the aisles of a supermarket and these choices and human desires form a part of natural history. . . Our desires are simply more grist for evolution's mill. No different from a change in the weather: a peril for some species, an opportunity for others.

On the topic of apples and John Chapman (aka Johnny Appleseed), Pollan makes mention of apples not growing true from seed. If not for grafting, every apple in the world would be its own distinct variety, and it would be impossible to keep a good one going beyond the life span of that particular tree. Chapman by planting seeds was planting a million or more different apple trees. Many of the apples produced would not have been fit for eating, though they would of course make cider. Some of the trees have been archived in the Geneva orchard and here Pollan writes -

I found apples that tasted like bananas, others like pears. Spicy apples and sickly sweet ones, apples sprightly as lemons and others rich as nuts. I picked apples that weighed more than a pound, others compact enough to fit in a child pocket. Here were yellow apples, green apples, spotted apples, russet apples, striped apples, purple apples, even a near-blue apple. These were apples that looked pre polished and apples that wore a dusty bloom on their cheeks. Some of these apples had qualities that were completely lost on me but had meant the world to people once. . .

Compare this to John Ralston Saul's definition of an apple - Spherical object created by thirty-two chemical products, then dipped in wax, then gassed.

I've more or less stopped eating apples. The monotony of what's on offer. Red and Golden delicious, Granny Smith, Gala. There's no novelty or excitement, though I still have a fading weak spot for Fuji. . . On reflection grafting and the choices of generations of growers and wine makers have had a similar effect on wine. A handful of grape varieties, more or less genetically identical have come to dominate. Who starts a vineyard from seed, leaving it all to chance. Like the apple, the likelihood of something valuable arising from germination is remote and without the benefit of name or the cachet of reputation. But this of course is how the much loved varietals of today arose. Time, chance and the choices of our ancestors.

It seems curious that a greater emphasis is not now being placed on finding new varietals equipped for the environmental challenges of tomorrow. Do we need a Johnny Grapeseed to help us find a vine capable to growing without irrigation? Imagine if the vines of some marginal area were removed and seeds were grown. Most would fail, but perhaps in time something unique, hardy and worthy would flourish. Surely the perfect example of terroir in action?

Unrelated: Chocolate and wine.

Jean Claude Lapalu Beaujolais Villages 2009

Beaujolais Villages, Burgundy, France. Gamay. Cork. Approx $A35.

Curiously by nights end I can discern some soy on the finish. . . It's not a detraction, just another interesting facet. Fresh and vibrant on opening with rose petal and cherry pips and later still stalk and whole bunches. Quite spiced and sappy in the mouth, with a pleasing brightness and energy. Recommended.

Chorizo balls

Essentially a thick slice of uncooked chorizo placed onto a small rolled disc of pizza dough, which is then pinched together, sealing the sausage within. Placed on a sheet of baking paper, pinched side down, this is baked at 200 degrees C for about 20 minutes. Using 400g of dried flour, I had enough dough to make about 30 small bread rolls. I also tried using some raw garlic prawns and a chorizo and chickpea stew, but neither were as pleasing as the plain slice of chorizo. Next time I think I'll try using some slow cooked pork belly. . .

Pinot noir vinegar

I had to shake my head the other day when I spotted a bottle of boutique Australian red wine vinegar for sale. I think the asking price was $A18 for a 500ml bottle. I've been making my own wine and now cider vinegars for several years. The hardest part is getting hold of some Acetobacter to start the process. . . I imagine it is something a cellar door, with attached restaurant could easily do with left over wine. . . In the pictured glass is some 2004 Pyramid Valley Pinot noir vinegar, which has been cut with the dregs of some 06 Bindi Block 5.

Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2008

Yarra Valley and Tasmania, Australia. Chardonnay. 13%. Screwcap. Approx $A60

One of the problems about getting older is remembering how things used to be. It seems like yesterday that I was buying half a case of the 1999 release for less than $30 a bottle. Though now twice the price, this is cut from the same cloth and made to the same specifications. . . as I sniff and drink I get a strong sense of déjà vu.

Flint and peach skin, mustard fruit, a hint of peanut. It's complex but also slightly contrived. Butterscotch in the mouth as well as a suggestion of sweetness, green bean and spiced oak. I can see why I used to like this, though now I'm less impressed. 92. Now - 2014.

Image: Eileen Hardy wearing a gold necklace.

A small bite

Despite looking plump and gorgeous, the figs I acquired over a week ago just would not ripen. I decided to segment them and coat them in a fine layer of sugar before throwing them into a pan to caramelize. When they were almost done I added a few tablespoons of Pedro Ximinez and let this bubble before removing the pan from the heat. Once cool enough to handle, I wrapped the fig pieces along with some freshly harvested rocket (from the garden) in a strip of jamon.

Related.

Pickled cucumbers

The original recipe can be found here. I used Lebanese cucumbers and so reduced the amount of vinegar, fish sauce and sugar by half.

Seifried Sweet Agnes Riesling 2008

Nelson, New Zealand. Riesling. 10%. Screwcap. Approx $A30

The label mentions this is an ice wine, which to me still means grapes harvested once they have been naturally frozen on the vine. I would assume these grapes have been frozen by man and machine after harvest. Yes it's pedantic, but I'd prefer the label to say this was an iced wine. . .

It's quite delicious and quite likely to tip you into a diabetic coma should you be predisposed. I think this has 242 grams (per litre) of residual sugar. Flint and a curious suggestion of white pepper, acetone, citrus oil, and bitter orange marmalade as well as the base note of sugar cane and freshly spun warm fairy floss. Intense, textured and indulgent. There's candied orange and citrus zest, a piercing seam of acidity and notable length and balance.

On the side

Business section of the Weekend Australian (8-9 January 2011) and John Durie reviews the state of corporate wine. On Constellation - In the first nine months of last year, the BRL Hardy wine assets acquired by Constellation reported an operating profit of $2.5 million against the $72.2 net profit back in 2002.

On Fosters - When then Foster's boss Trevor O'Hoy used to boast about being the biggest wine company in the world, he had about 38 percent of the Australian wine market. Foster's now has 22.6 per cent.

Almost

Perched and ready to take off, the approach of a man pointing a camera, hand and lens noticeably trembling, disturbing a momentary pause between food and fornication.

A second look at the Downie Petit Manseng. Like the slightly blurred dragonfly image, I'm having trouble capturing the essence of the wine. There's musk and grape skins and this time I can smell a shake of white pepper. Grippy and phenolic in the mouth, an edge of bitterness and citrus pith to complement the sugar. It seems to have moved little in the intervening months.

A long lunch

A warm (39 degree C) Sunday and the promise of a day off and a sleep in on the public holiday Monday. The idea of work and productive employment seems distant and unimportant. . . A whole table of food, including a slightly more cooked version of this dish and to the left, my favourite red cabbage salad.

How? Finely chop half a head of red cabbage, though excise the white core first. To this add a handful of fresh coriander, two tablespoons of very finely diced onion and a quarter cup of toasted sesame seeds. Make the dressing by heating 4 tablespoons each of soy and rice wine vinegar and 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 tablespoon of olive oil and 1 teaspoon of sesame oil. Once bubbling, pour this on the cabbage and toss.

Several bottles were opened.

A noteworthy and curious Mann Cygne Blanc 2008 (Swan Valley, Western Australia). Made from mutant grapes, the back label is more prosaic. . . this white Cabernet variety has been bred and developed on our own Swan Valley property. It carries PBR plant patenting rightsand evolved through a wonderful chance of nature. Nutty, almond meal, aldehyde nose. A hint of oxidation along with peaches and cherry pips. Quite distinctive. Bucolic and sun tanned. The Perrier-Jouët 1998 was more svelte, mannered and expected. Malt, soy and apple with lovely creaminess in the mouth.

The Epis Chardonnay 2005 is an extraordinary wine. Beautiful before, with age it has become more singular and expressive. Flint, mineral and stonefruit. Curry leaf and mustard seed nose, smoked, grilled and peach filled in the mouth.

Domaine Rousseau Chambertin 1998

Chambertin, Burgundy, France. Pinot noir. 13%. Cork (mostly stained on one small side). Source: Cellar.

M.

Demure and yet quite complete, enticing and enduring. It's autumnal and ready. Tobacco leaf, wilted rose petals, star anise, game and a suggestion of earth and decay. Unforced. A slightly sour edge in the mouth, but also beautiful flow and pace. It's casual yet complex and enveloping. A wonderful wine.

Grosset Watervale Off Dry Riesling 2010

Watervale, Clare, South Australia. Riesling. 11.5%. Screwcap.

Tasting note 999.

The pictured 07 Polish Hill is just starting to turn. The blossom is still there, but cut with toast and petroleum. It seems less electric in the mouth, though still quite beautiful. Blinded I could smell riesling, but in the mouth it seemed fleshier than expected. The Off Dry Riesling was also masked, it smelt like a new Grosset riesling, and reminded me of the 2010 Polish Hill, an unexpected glimpse of the blue capsule confirmed my suspicion and once tasted it was fairly clear. A known unknown. It's expressive, floral and tropical at once, with a trace of slate. Lovely intensity and pace, the sweetness moving in step. Now - 2015+.

Before.