La Violetta 'La Ciornia' Shiraz 2008

Great Southern, Western Australia. Shiraz, Viognier 2%. 14%. Screwcap. Approx $A60

Though I would have seen the 2009 review by Jamie Goode, my first, formed recollection is from September 2010. Since then an unfulfilled yearning. . . Until last week.

If you are a hard core wino, you will know the satisfaction of eventually finding a sought after bottle. It must be one of the early and surest signs of vinous insanity. That laborious and often unrewarding search for an esoteric bottle, the search that makes no sense to individuals sane or alcoholic.

A fleeting note of ripe blackcurrant (? DMS) before a more expected and persistent blackberry, an enticing fog of spice and pepper and a whiff of leather. Wonderful acidity and to start this seems quite lean and muscular in the mouth. A peppered steak. . . First impressions, of course, are often misleading, and in time a sweet core emerges. For a moment it reminds me of the Clonakilla Syrah. That silky but firm palate which by nights end has shifted shape to show more cream and softness. Delicious. 93-95. Now - 2014.

Buying wine from Winosapien

Can you buy wine from winosapien? No.*
Is winosapien on Twitter? No.**
Is winosapien on Facebook? No!

There is however an internet doppelgänger who is seeking to fill these gaps. I write now to stress that I have no involvement in any of this. It's not me. . .

I recently discovered that some entity has decided to set up an internet wine retail business, called winosapien. There's nothing on the website, only a link to an unfollowed twitter account (not me) and a similarly lonely facebook account.

I harbour no malice. Perhaps the retailer will be superb, offering vinous esoteria. I did however want to point out, that giving your new and unheralded business the same name as an existing internet site, over which you have no control, is fraught with potentially unforeseen complications.

I hope for instance that my readers will be far less confused than any prospective customers of the proposed winosapien retail site, which is currently nothing more than a counting clock. . .

* I'd never want to sell any of the the wines I really liked.
** Though several sources helpfully tweet the arrival of new wino sapien blog posts.

Image: 2010 Perth Royal Show.

I Giusti & Zanza Perbruno 2006

Toscana, Italy. Shiraz. 14%. Cork. Approx $A50

A beautiful label - three wings and the words Ali per non cadere. Wings to stay high.

Dark and deep. Tasted blind, I think I would have trouble calling this anything but West Australian. . . Berries (Mulberry and blue), ink, chocolate, earth and a fleeting suggestion of wax and lavender. Spice cut with glue. . . Brisk and grainy, a hint of initial sweetness to offset the eventual austerity. Chewy, mocha flavoured tannins, this is competent and pleasing, but I had hoped for more. 90. Now - 2016.

Image: What's next. . .

Judging a wine by its label

I've declared my hand before, I'm a sucker for an eye catching label. I've managed to resist critters, but it seems I've a soft spot for monsters. The implicit message on this bottle, where the monster bears a striking resemblance to Julia Donaldon's Gruffalo, is that it will be large, lumbering and perhaps a touch sweet and over extracted. The more generous might call it a BBQ wine, as if the clumsiness will be forgiven if it is eaten with charred and overcooked meat.

Lucy Margaux Jim's Pinot noir 2010

Uraidla Valley, Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Pinot noir. 13.8%. Diam. Approx $A45

Quite delicious but also idiosyncratic and challenging. Unfiltered and unfined there's a glorious murkiness to the eye. It's richly scented, though the olfactory signature changes and reforms as the night proceeds. It's pretty and floral with crushed strawberries to begin, but later it seems more spiced, earthy and stem laden. Slightly sweet and metallic, the emphasis is forward and the impression is of something globular, concentrated and savoury. Once again spice (ginger and white pepper), zip, mineral and char. It's layered and complex, expansive and a touch warm. Fascinating.

The Emperor's new clothes?

As Max Allen highlighted in his recent book, one of the interesting things happening in Australian wine is the emergence of a new breed of maker whose actions are informed more by terroir and biodynamics than formula and intervention. It's hard not to get swept along by the enthusiasm and beautiful labels. Though the skeptic in me wonders if the newness and hype is masking any vinous shortcomings, my inner child is already impatiently fondling and inspecting the bottle making plans for consumption.

Felton Road Calvert Pinot noir 2008

Central Otago, New Zealand. Pinot noir. 14%. Screwcap. Approx $A85.

I've consciously avoided the term funky, I find it too imprecise and annoying, but as I sniff, it's the term that first comes to mind. . . That certain depth and sexuality that seems inextricably linked with the grape. A symphony of scent made up of earth, mushrooms, truffle, spice and a good measure of skid marks. . . Meaningless words for something quite alluring and pretty. Forward and fleshy, full of richness, extract and sweetness. The polar opposite to Burgundy in shape, but still sharing a core of seduction and velvet. With time even the tannins, with their coating of char and sap, soften and integrate. How can something so wrong feel so good? 92. Now - 2016.

A previous encounter.

Bean curd and seaweed soup

Like a fellow Perth blogger, I spent the afternoon steeping a chicken with the intention of making Chicken rice and soup. Though I had David Thompson's Street Food as a source of reference and inspiration, it was not an entirely successful meal, my stock seemed and little thin, unsalted and insipid and consequently the rice seemed to lack some punch. Still I'll record what I did with the soup and rice for my own future reference. . .

Soup.

• 6 cups of chicken stock (I used the liquid left over from steeping a chicken)
• 2 tablespoons of soy sauce
• 1 large square of fresh, soft tofu. Approx 200g - cut into 1 inch cubes
• 1 disk of dried seaweed - approx 25g - broken up and rinsed to remove sand and grit
• Spring onion and coriander leaves to dress

Dumplings.

• 150g minced pork
• 2 tablespoons of soy sauce
• White pepper and a pinch of sugar

How?

Make the meatballs first by combining the pork, soy sauce, pepper and sugar in a bowl. Mix well by hand and the set aside.

Heat the stock and when boiling break up the meat mixture into small balls and add to the stock. Then add the beancurd, seaweed and additional soy sauce. Let simmer for a few minutes and then remove from the heat. Taste and correct flavours if needed and then add the spring onion and coriander before serving.

The unpictured chicken rice.

First prepare the rice. A lack of sufficient quantities of the correct grain meant I used 2 cups of Jasmine, 1 of Basmati (not as bad as it sounds) and 2 tablespoons of Glutinous. Thrice the rice was rinsed.

In a mortar grind two coriander roots, two cloves of garlic and a small knob of ginger with a large pinch of salt. Now fry this in a medium saucepan, with rendered chicken fat or two tablespoons of peanut oil. Then add the rice and stir well, before adding enough stock to cover the rice by 1 distal phalanx (approx 1 inch). Turn the heat down and bring to the boil, periodically testing the rice and adding more stock if needed. It should take about 20 minutes.

Sori' Paitin Barbaresco 2005

Piedmont, Italy. Nebbiolo. 14%. Cork. Source: cellar.

Quite formidable and tannic, though the nose is somewhat generic and seems more notable for the process (extended maceration on skins) than the grape or region. Stems and tar, bay leaf, menthol and lavender. The initial impression in the mouth is of richness and a grainy seam of muscular tannins. I've no idea what blue ink tastes like, but this the mental image evoked as I drink. Quite linear and monumental and slightly hard work. 90. Now - 2016 with a T-bone.

Image: John Snow's map of the Broad St pump.

Frankland Estate Netley Road Vineyard Riesling 2010

Great Southern, Western Australia. Riesling. 12.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A35.

Vines planted in 1968 and a name (Netley Road) that was new (to me) from a producer that is locally renowned.

Talc, blossom, slate and flint. I can smell the petroleum precursors already. Tahitian lime zest and white pepper tickle my olfactory bulb. . . Crunchy and for a fleeting moment a suggestion (false) of sweetness, soon replaced by a textured, fleshy presence in the mouth. The feel, if not the flavours remind me of rambutan and lychee. A bristling wine. 90-91. Now - 2016+

Image: David Thompson's superb, but unwieldy, Thai Street Food and what I ate (take away Chinatown roast pork) with this wine.

Wynns John Riddoch 1998

Coonawarra, South Australia. Cabernet sauvignon. 13.5%. Cork (excellent condition). Source: cellar.

I suspect Ernest Shackleton and John Riddoch have little in common*, though the respective time lines of their lives do coalesce for the last portion of the 19th century and they both took calculated risks at considerable cost.

I've been skimming through a wonderful book, Explorers, and I keep returning to the advert Shackleton placed for crew for his third trip to the Antarctic. He selected 56 men from 5000 applicants, who responded to this:

Wanted. Men for hazardous journey. Low wages. Bitter cold. Long hours of complete darkness. Safe return doubtful. Honour and recognition in the event of success.

The wine has changed little since 2007. It's still dark and deep with years to go before it sleeps. Slightly stinky and reductive to begin, an oak forest, shellac and polish, bay leaf, malt, soy, black olive tapenade and dark chocolate. Rich and layered, a sweet flourish to open and lovely poise, depth and length. A bitter chocolate, lead pencil finish. Excellent. Now - 2020.

* Post script and correction: An email for an informed source - John Riddoch's grandson, John Rymill was in fact a noted and accomplished polar explorer. He traveled to and explored the Antarctic in 1934 - 37 in a schooner aptly renamed the Penola.

Albondigas

Having two reasonably adventurous children, I try to cook something from a different country each week. Today, something Spanish and rustic.

Ingredients - Albondigas:

• 250 - 300g each of minced pork and beef.
• 3 cloves of garlic - finely diced
• 1/3 large onion finely diced
• 1 cup of fresh breadcrumbs
• 1 small handful of parsley - finely chopped (I used a blender for the onion, bread and parsley)
  
• 1 teaspoon each of ground coriander, cumin and nutmeg.
• 1 pinch of cinnamon
• 1 pinch of salt
• 1 egg

Ingredients - Tomato sauce:

• 1 tablespoon of olive oil
• 2/3 large onion - finely diced
• 1 garlic clove
• 250ml dry white wine - I used chardonnay
• 2 x 400g cans of diced tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons of tomato puree
• 1 cup chicken stock
• 1 cup of frozen peas

How? Make the meat balls by combining all the above ingredients in a large bowl, working by hand until homogeneous. Shape into small balls, set aside and refrigerate for 30 minutes or so. Start on the sauce.

Fry the onion and garlic in a tablespoon of olive oil until clear and then add the wine and bring to the boil. After a few minutes add the tins of tomato, tomato puree and stock. Simmer and reduce by approximately half. Remove from heat. Cook the meat balls.

In a large pan fry the meat balls in olive oil, in batches, till brown on the outside. When all have been appropriately sealed and partially cooked - set aside and now reheat the sauce. Once simmering - add the meat balls to the sauce and cook for a further 5 minutes. Then add the frozen peas and mix and stir, till the peas are hot and the liquid is once again bubbling. Serve.

Wine? Through a combination of mismanagement and over consumption, I have a current paucity of Spanish wine. Never mind - the peas and tomato were capably washed down by few glasses of Coonawarra Cabernet.

Older

Coonawarra. South Australia. Cabernet sauvignon. 13.5%. Cork (1/3 stained). Source: cellar.

It's hard to escape the idea of growing old and frail. I spend each working day seeing people who have aged, being a select population, assured of confidentiality, most feel free to complain - about their skin growing weak and spotty, about their sight and hearing, about their bowels, about their children and about the perceived unfairness of it all. Just occasionally I see someone who is full of grace and good will, who despite all the years, hardships and visible degeneration seems content and unafraid.

1994 Wynns Black Label. Mature, but unbowed. Blackcurrant, cigar, cedar and a well used spice box. Dust and menthol and if you look a suggestion of sharpness which is in keeping with the vintage. Slightly short and sweet to begin, but then more length, spice, savouriness and dark chocolate. My last estimate of the drinking window seems overly pessimistic. Now - 2016. 90-92.

Image: On the topic of obsolescence, my first computer, purchased in the early 1990's, it cost me $7000 (I should have spent the money on wine. . .) and after more than a decade collecting dust, it now sits on the verge awaiting collection.

Jauma Abig 2010

Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia. Grenache. 14.8%. Diam. Approx $A49.

Pretty and spiced to begin, before becoming more dusty and lifted. Pepper and berries (crushed and blue), saw dust and a coat of vanilla and warm leather. Something creamy and confection like, though at times a less flattering note of toluene. . . Nothing more and nothing less than I'd expect. Large, warm and soft in the mouth, with more than a hint of Port. There's a redeeming spine of acid, fine, filmy tannins and moderate length. Overall, it's quite convincing. 89-90. Now - 2015.

Vinea Marson Viognier 2010

Heathcote, Victoria, Australia. Viognier. 13.5%. Diam. Approx $A30.

Pale. The nose bristles and presents a variety of sensations, none that I can accurately label. . . Marzipan, soap, white flowers and something green and faintly herbal. It's wonderful in the mouth - a very clear apricot - ripe, nectar like, offset by lovely acidity and a suggestion of salt and savouriness. Fleshy, but free of fat and redundancy. Now. 93.

Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2006

Margaret River, Western Australia. Chardonnay. 14.5%. Screwcap.

Five years old today and a wine that has a certain circularity and idiosyncratic significance. The first tasting note I posted all those years ago was a Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay. As to this vintage, I had tasted it last year and was slightly underwhelmed. It seemed too large and obvious. No such issues on this occasion, it seems complete and quite wonderful. Wheat and almond meal on the nose, in the mouth it is superb - the acidity is brisk and edgy and there is a tension and tightness to offset the characteristic swagger and bristle. Excellent. Now - 2016+

As I've mentioned before - many thanks to all the kind souls who have shown an interest in this diversion of mine. Because of you, I know much more than I did at the beginning.

Bindi Block 5 2009

Macedon, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Diam. Approx $A90.

Squeaky clean and perhaps a little too prim and proper. Perfume, cherry and earth. Delicate and delicious, a mouthful of rose petals and a suggestion of sweetness and generosity. Quite deep and lush, this needs time to develop some spots. . . 2013 - 2018. 93+

Cirillo 1850 Semillon 2010

Barossa, South Australia. Semillon. 10%. Screwcap. Approx $A19.

Old vines, though presumably the 1850 refers only to the ancient Grenache. To start this seems thin, watery and unrewarding. A glass of water with a squeeze of lemon. . . It grows in stature and body and by nights end I'm more favourably inclined. Bubble gum, green bean, acacia and wax. A sour, salty edged in the mouth, citrus and immature melon with an undercurrent of fresh herbs. 87. Now - 2015.

Properita Sperino Uvaggio 2006

Like the 2004 edition this is quite moreish and delicious. As the wines seems so pleasing and complete it is not surprisingly that the producer has been the subject of various wine blog posts. The 2005 is reviewed here by David McDuff and comments on this vintage, the 2006 can be found here, courtesy of Maurice Hovens.

I'm not sure there is much more to say. This is dangerously drinkable, the sort of wine that makes wine savers obsolete, bright, clean and satisfying. The nose starts with a little sharpness and dust before showing pepper, raspberries and raw meat, it's a wonderfully effective amalgam. . . Lovely acidity in the mouth and a cola like softness before meaty and enduring tannins. Terrific and certainly as good as the 2004.

Image: Folie à deux. aka My daughters collection of Lindt wrappers. . .