After a series of flabby and overweight chardonnay, something tight, pert and rapier like. . . Match stick (and curry leaf), flint, nutmeg, ground ginger and mustard fruit. Lean and citric in the mouth, the notable thing is the acidity, precision and feel of smooth and rolling river stones. It's succulent, bright and quite exemplary. A shape shifter wine, moving from svelte and erect to cream and flesh (and antipodean sweetness) as it warms. Terrific length and poise, like the 07A this is quite superb. 95. Now - 2017+
Image: Margaret River stones and worry beads. . .

4 comments:
Did you see Gary Walsh's opinion? http://www.winefront.com.au/penfolds-bin-09a-chardonnay-2009/
Jesse,
Nope.
All blame lays solely at my feet for this one. . .
Mercurial wine this. Polariser ++ (I've both loved and not quite loved it too).
Andrew,
I've got the dregs of the bottle left when I finally get home and will try again.
I wonder how much influence serving temperature has on the profile and subsequent opinion. On opening when the was about 10 degrees C, it had a lovely tightness and minerality. By nights end when it was at room temperature the wine makers tricks - the creaminess, oak texture and sweetness, the malo were all more obvious and the form was more loose and free.
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